My Blog: Curl Science

What I’ve learned on my curl journey

Starting your curly journey?  Overwhelmed by information, products and opinions?  Me Too! Twenty-Seven years on the floor. Twelve Years since my first DevaCurl class.  I still feel like I’m learning the ins and outs of the curly community.

When I first heard of DevaCurl in 2006, I was working at Jouvence, Aveda in Northern Virginia. Aveda mainstream was centered around holistic hair care, a bunch of color knowledge and texture management. I really thought I was hot stuff as a Stylist. I had a few accomplishments on my resume, regularly entered international competitions and prided myself on a loyal clientele.

I had a lot of naturally curly clients in my chair.  Aveda had given me some insight into textured, curly hair types and guidance with products and cutting techniques. At the time, Aveda had a single product called “Be Curly” and a separate line called “Brilliant,” which focused on dry, tight curls. During this period, a few of my clients came to me after visiting the DevaChan Salon in NYC, and excitedly shared their experiences. Because I was loyal to the Aveda line at that time, I was not open minded to outside education—so, I missed a major opportunity.

Fast-forward seventeen years into my career. I was burnt out with a corporate environment and left the franchise I was working for to join a small business called Blown Salon, in Alexandria, Va. The owner was Mason, an eclectic artist. He carried the growing line DevaCurl.

After watching their DevaStylist, Sarah, execute DevaCuts, I was blown away. Her clients were crying tears of joy! They had never had a dry cut with no tension before. Also, the styling products and methods of application were pivotal in the experience.

I signed up for a DevaCurl class right away at the Gramm Webb academy in Arlington, VA. We went over the cutting technique and products in 8 hours. I got my certificate and was immediately put on the floor to do DevaCuts. And wow! I was in over my head. I understood the idea but had no experience producing good results.

It wasn’t until a woman sat in my chair and said, “No girl, you aren’t getting it right!” that I acquiesced. She showed me with my own shears how to cut each individual curl; I was humbled.

For so many years before this moment I was conceited and believed I was a master stylist. I was schooled by a client who had been to DevaChan in NYC. In this moment, my curiosity blossomed as I realized the potential to grow as a stylist.

In 2001, DevaCurl blew up as a company based on the popularity of The Curly Girl Handbook by Lorraine Massey, which championed the styling regimen, known as the “Curly Girl Method.” DevaCurl pairs their signature DevaCut with the Curly Girl Method and their complimentary line of products that are sulfate, silicone and paraben-free. The DevaCut was half the magic. The product application and its ingredients were the basis for the curly revolution.

Curly cutting is understanding the trajectory of a curl. Where it is cut is where it will live and how it will grow. Traditional haircuts follow the shape of the head either inverted, rounded or square. This leaves unsightly gaps in curly hair. Literally, too much hair is removed and the hair looks empty in some places. To minimize the dreaded “pyramid look” described in Massey’s book, an alternate method of cutting was formulated and marketed by DevaCurl.

A DevaCut is an inspiration, a shape, a system of cutting hair that is simple in concept yet diametrically opposed to traditional hair cutting techniques. It follows the opposite angels of classic cutting.

Deva classes began an evolution for my salon chair. More and more, I was exposed to different hair types. Ten-thousand repetitions allowed me some ‘ah-ha’ moments until I started to feel that I could say with confidence that I’m a curly/textured hair artist and specialist.

I’m grateful for the lessons curly hair has brought to me. It has taught me that everyone struggles with something cosmetic. Whether it is a straight-haired person who wishes they were curly or a curly individual wishing they had straight hair, I get really excited because there will always be someone willing to sit in my chair and allow me to help them to fulfil their vision. As a stylist my advanced education has no limits, only facets of untapped potential for learning.

Why Do I charge so much for a DevaCut?

A DevaCut is a different service than a classic wet haircut.  I use shears specifically designed for dry cutting the hair.  I have invested over ten thousand dollars into my shears, which require regular, costly sharpening services.  A variety of blades contribute different functions that add to the anatomy of my DevaCuts. 

I have advanced my technique and skills through continued training and a myriad of experience on the salon floor.  In this way, I have developed intuitive knowledge of where the curl will lay after it has been cut. 

My curly hair clients need way more product application, attention, education and time allocated for service.  I price based on time spent, which is nearly twice as long as time spent on straight/smooth hair-cuts and styles.  I do offer a lower-priced refresh service—a DevaCut with no wash, blow-dry or set, which is comparable to my classic style, wet hair-cut rate.

My DevaCurl Journey

My passion for curly hair care is very personal. My hair is more wavy than curly, but also fine, porous and prone to damage (from my addiction to bleach).  As my hair lacks in natural style, without a good cut or something more aggressive like a Brazilian Blowout, it often is a frizzy, hot mess! When I’m having a bad hair day, I’m embarrassed to tell people that I am a hair stylist.

The first Deva class I attended used me as a model in the practical part of the class. I became enlightened that I could wear my hair in its natural state without a flat iron or blowout! I was immediately impressed and bought DevaCurl Low Poo Shampoo, One Condition, and the Frizz-Free Volumizing Foam Mouse. It was spring in the DMV area—the perfect time to go curly. So began my obsession with cutting and highlighting textured hair.

Experiencing hair as a stylist has been more like an expedition than a journey.Learning to cut and color hair in the 90’s meant using very “cookie cutter,” precise systems.  Hours of practice with mannequin heads had to happen.

When I started my education path with DevaCurl, they had innovated a signature look which incorporated a cutting shape called “The Waterfall,” and a highlighting technique known as “Pintura.”.  Transitioning from always taming textured hair with a round brush to maintaining a more natural look was another learning curve. The DevaCut system has continued to evolve to keep up with the trends.  Recently, the balayage technique has blown up in the United States eclipsing Deva’s ability to be showcased as unique to haircoloring systems.  Pintura is specifically designed for curly hair and does not tease the hair during application, so it is different from balayage.

Working with clients is an honor.  Consulting about shape, length desired, color goals and at home care is essential. Technically the DevaCut has earned its ranks in the world of beauty. I’m glad I took that class; it changed my life personally and professionally.  Now, I have the freedom to style my hair curly or straight with confidence and without excessive chemicals.

What is The Curl Chart?

Andre Walker, Oprah Winfrey’s hair stylist, developed a curl chart in the 90’s to describe different hair types.  At the time, he was developing a shampoo line.  Four categories for hair texture were formulated, with sub-categories as appropriate.   

Straight (1A-C), Wavy (2A-C), Curly (3A-C) and Kinky/Coily (4A-C). 

It is not uncommon to find some people can have several different curl patterns on their scalp.  These patterns can change in density and/or thickness over time.  Hormones, diet and hydration also play a major role in our curl’s liveliness.  Sometimes pregnancy and menopause can alter hair texture.  Believe it or not, so does taking artificial hormones such as birth control. 

Does a Deva Stylist have to be Naturally Curly to understand curly hair types?

This is a tricky subject. A stylist with curly hair can definately relate to a client with similar hair texture with more confidence.

Some days I wear my hair smoothed out and some days I style it wavy.  I have had clients ask me why I present my hair straight when I’m a DevaCutter?  I answer, “because six months out of the year in the DMV, I have no choice but to struggle with my natural texture in 100% humidity.’

How I style my hair on any given day effects my mood and spirit to be in a higher elevation.  I love to guide others in their quest for the best representation of themselves.

It is tempting to believe that a stylist who does not have textured hair themselves would not able to master the curly hair styling game, but that would be a mistake. The capabilities of those in this profession are more defined by training, experience and fearless dedication rather than personal experience alone. In fact sometimes curly haired stylists are less skilled in perfecting curly styles when they have spent their own lives fighting against their curls rather than embracing them head on.  

In the beginning of my curl journey, I was faced with insecurities, prejudice against my own abilities and unsure interactions with my extremely curly clients. Like, clients with 4c curls terrified me.  It was new territory.  But you know what?  In beauty school, I was terrified the first time I cut a real human head.  My mom gave me a chance to attempt a trim.  Then, I felt better about the opportunity to try new things.  

My client Jane allowed me to experience her 4B hair that was adjusting to a natural state after many years of a chemical relaxer.  Guess what?  Now I cut her and her three boy’s hair with confidence!  

The politics of curly hair care is fouled by it being a multibillion-dollar industry.  It has been dominated with controversy, cancel culture, lawsuits, corporations, acquisitions and manipulative marketing. I am both a curly consumer and a hairstylist. I’ve spent many years looking for the best products and techniques to take the best care my guest’s hair care needs. 

Based on my own experience, I am writing this blog to educate and spread the love given to me by the people and companies that inspired my career, and for all the clients who encourage me to never stop seeking new and better ways to embrace their natural hair in whatever form it comes.

Maintenance Trims vs Hair-Chops

Getting a hair-cut is nerve racking.  Finding a new stylist is over the top nerve racking!

I know this in my core.  Individuals sitting in my chair for the first time are often frustrated, upset with prior experiences and very nervous.  That is 100% true no matter what the back story is or their hair texture. 

I am trained to listen and to hear your story.  After you tell me what has been going on with your previous hair stylists and vision, I am prepared to customize a look for you.

Deva Cuts focus on shape, length, and desired volume.  There is a puzzle that must be solved.  The tighter your curl pattern the less length can be removed, if you just want a trim.  The challenge is most curly individuals get infrequent trims.  The perimeter of the hairline and ends to the interior layers of the style are often compromised in 3 to 4 months since the last trim.  

Subsequently, curly clients get their hair cut less often.  Sometimes waiting eighteen months to two years for a cut.  This is when it feels sacrificial to get the motivation to sit in a stylist’s chair hoping they don’t get scissor happy and do a big chop. 

The challenge is wants vs. need.  After two years in my area, the hard water builds up along with environmental toxins and products have wreaked havoc on the hair.  Just a trim probably won’t eliminate the need for at least two to three inches of damage to be removed.

Cutting in stages is a good course of action.  Starting with a ‘dusting,’ a slight removal of length one-half to one inch just to get a feel for a change.  Creating some layers for volume and lift and then a shaping if permission is granted from the client is essential.  Being cautious is part of my job.

DevaCurl Product Buildup Observations and Advanced Theory

In May of 2022 I attended an advanced DevaCurl class. I talked about some observations I’ve made as a DevaCurl practitioner. I had been using Build Up Buster. My guest’s hair looked clean on the scalp and on the ends of the hair, however, the mid shaft of the hair still had a build-up of product and natural oils from the scalp. In some instances, it felt very coated on the hair strands, especially near the hairline and in the nape. The teacher recommended MalibuC Hard Water Remover to address this issue.

We sweat and have active sebaceous glands in our scalp. Some more than others. Active lifestyle, hot yoga, jogging, excessive sports and exercise can contribute to salty and oily buildup on the hair strands.

When we wash our hair, steam from hot showers and body heat in the scalp activates the shampoo to remove the dirt and sebaceous natural oils. However, the longer the hair strand is, the more challenges we face with build-up and hard water residue. So, the scalp might look clean but the mid shaft of the hair looks oily, ‘greasy’ and inconsistent in texture, as if there is a film on top of the hair strand and perhaps relaxed in curl pattern. 

To counter the build-up, I have found that Build Up Buster from DevaCurl paired with Hard Water Remover, MalibuC is a great combination. Emulsifying the shampoo in the hair first and then sprinkling the powder to blend in is best for application.

The result? Amazing. The abrasiveness of the ascorbic acid mixed w a shampoo molecule releases the cast or mold of buildup around the hair strand.

The more the buildup is released, you may experience a funky metallic smelling odor rising from your scalp. Massaging the hair cuticles will fasten the pace, but it may take 5 to 10 minutes of massaging the hair before the odor dissipates. This is normal and to be expected.

Your hair will feel super soft and you haven’t even conditioned it yet. At the shampoo bowl I have the advantage of seeing the color of the water during this process. It almost always grey and murky.  If trying at home, please rinse thoroughly. Follow with a second shampooing to release residue, rinse again, apply conditioner, rinse thoroughly then apply styling products.

Frizz: The Enemy

The other point of interest is the frizz in the crown area. When using ascorbic acid, it equalizes porosity and adds shine to the hair. The crown is the spot that takes a lot of the water pressure from the perspective of where most people stand in the shower. The hotter the shower the more blast to the crown area. The next thing you know the conditioner that was supposed to be softening the hair has run down the drain. The hair line and nape grab onto what is left and don’t get rinsed nearly as much as the crown!

With this in mind, wash with warm water. Rinse, shampoo then apply conditioner and place a shower cap over the conditioner to minimize product waste and unwanted heat to hair strands. Then you can turn up the heat to take a hot shower. The steam will increase your conditioner’s ability to do its work. This is awesome and allows for temperature control. I personally don’t like using cold water at the end of a service unless the customer has fantasy colors in their hair. Cold water closes the cuticle and doesn’t allow for subsequent hair care products to enter the strands.

At least once a week, I recommend turning around to face the shower head with you face towards the floor. Allow the water to rinse from the nape or base of your scalp to the top of your head. This will help with the flow of natural oils and build up to be removed with the water pressure.

It’s best to do a hard water remover and build up remover on the same day as a deep conditioner. The hair cuticle is prepped for receiving either a bond repair or an extra gulp of moisture. I recommend MalibuC Hard Water Remover every four to six weeks and deep conditioners alternately every third or fourth wash day.

Porosity

Porosity is a hot topic on social media. I love the demonstrations on Instagram and YouTube! Yes, if you pour water on low porosity hair it will reject the water.  It will fall right off the hair like a poncho rejecting rain in a thunderstorm.  Low porosity hair takes a long time to absorb the water and a very long time for the hair to dry. Generally, protein is not recommended for low porosity.  I like the all-natural, Taliah Waajid line for low porosity hair.

Porous hair absorbs water quickly. It needs protein and moisture to feel rejuvenated.  DevaCurl products work best for high to medium porosity hair in my experience.

How to Use Curly Products

First please honor your curls with a paraben, sulfate and silicon free regimen. On wash days use warm water to emulsify your shampoo.  If opposed to a product that suds proceed with manufactures instructions.  Follow with either a daily conditioner or deep conditioner.  Rinse thoroughly with warm water to prepare hair to receive hair care regimen.

In general, for medium to high porosity hair, apply products to your curls in the shower with your head upside down and hair dripping wet. Using ‘prayer hands’ scrunch the product from the ends of your curls to the scalp. Squish out the extra water from your hair.  Unfortunately, this leads to some product waste.  This is the ‘Curly Method’ in short hand.   

Be firm with your scrunching, go slow and allow the extra water and product to drip from each section with patience.  You can use a microfiber towel or a t-shirt towards the end of the extra water being squished out.  At this time, you can wrap your head up with the microfiber towel or t-shirt to plop. Plopping is a method of incubating body heat into your hair care while drying the hair by syphoning out the residual water. 

A similar process can be used for low porosity hair.  However, each layer of product benefits from a curl comb or wet brush that forces your product regimen into your hair strands.  Moving section by section, parting with large clips is best for managing thick, long, low porosity curls.  

The order of product application varies from one line to the next.  Generally, mousse is best applied first at the roots for lift and volume.  After mousse, I like to layer leave-in conditioner, followed by styling cream and then gel for definition and control.  

A humectant is to seal in the moisture from the hair care and attract the moisture from the environment.  Product that seals out the moisture from the environment is anti-humectant. Anti-humectants are designed to defend against humidity while humectants are used during the dry season to maintain moisture. That’s why seasonal forecasting is important.

A good trick for anti-humidity effect is to spray a ‘casting’ of a flexible hold hairspray from roots to ends.  Hold the bottle or can about ten inches from the shape of your hairstyle.  The hairspray acts as a shield from humidity trapping in the goodness of your regimen and sealing out the environment.  I like the Flexible Hold Hairspray from DevaCurl and Surface Curls Finishing Spray. This step also aids in reducing drying time with or without heat.

DevaCurl also has introduced a product called FASTDRY, which further reduces drying time by up to 66%, with or without heat.  It seriously works but it makes me cough when I spray it.  I have to put the diffuser on my blow-dryer and run it at low air on my station’s tray to get the air to be breathable.  Also, it really only seems to work with the DevaCurl line.  I don’t know why, but it did not pair well when cocktailing into a style when I had used more organic products.

To refresh hair, you can use PH balanced water in an 8oz bottle and ten drops of essential lavender oil to revitalize the hair on no-wash and co-wash days.  DevaCurl has a DEVAFRESH Mist, Surface has Awaken Mist and Taliah Waajid has Moisture Clenz.  All of these products minimize unwanted aroma and fluff up the hair reactivating curl patterns for up to 24 hours after an initial wash day. 

By day four or five it’s probably time to consider washing your hair with your full wash-day routine. But the timing may differ depending on your hair’s individual needs.

Natural and organic lines pair well with each other. Likewise synthetic lines pair well with each other. When something organic touches something synthetic it doesn’t always work out to be the best combination. Some people are sensitive and allergic to plants. Some people are allergic to specific ingredients in either synthetic or organic lines.

There is a market for a variety of combinations of ingredients. If there wasn’t growth and development in the area of cosmetics, I’d have probably left the industry a long time ago.

Bond Repair

A Bond Repair is great for re-constructing hair follicles to get those curls popping again. After an ascorbic acid treatment, applying a bond repair to your hair will make it feel like it has shrunk. Perceived length disappearing has metamorphosized to extra volume and lift. Your shape may seem several inches shorter so be prepared for a texture reboot as well as shine and flexibility to the curl. If receiving a hair-cut on the same day as cleansing and re-constructing, you might experience a sensory overload.

In my experience, bond repair is excellent for fighting frizz. If a keratin treatment that is protein based has anti-frizz properties, then a bond repair that is protein based is similar in effect. The keratin treatment is Demi-Permanent and a chemical reaction with a heat press.  A repair conditioner is temporary, topical and water soluble. They both serve a purpose.

Olaplex invented the first bond repair, revolutionizing repair systems for damaged lifeless over-processed hair. I like it a lot. However, I think Olaplex works better for straight hair.  

DevaCurl PROBOOST is a professional ‘in salon’ treatment.  It is awesome for a reboot to recoil and silken curls. DevaCurl CURLBOND Re-Coiling Repair & Bond Shampoo is a great at home regimen enhancer, reinforcing ‘in salon’ services.

The DevaCurl PROBOOST is a watery like substance.  It is a smaller molecule than typical reconstructors. It seeps into the hair follicle filling porous hair with protein lipids meant to stick up to 55 washes.  It is similar to Olaplex No.1 & No. 2, professional ‘in salon’ treatment but designed specifically for curly hair.

Scalp Issues for Fine & Thinning Hair

Scalp issues like dandruff or thinning hair are an area of concern near and dear to my heart.  It’s the worst when your scalp is itchy or a cycle of hair thinning has endured.  I’ve experienced both.  Surgeries and post-partum have caused me to thin on more than one occasion.

DevaCurl doesn’t have a line for this challenge. Unfortunately, most shampoos designed for hair regeneration are sulfate based, drying out the hair. Look for a coconut base instead.

There is a hormone the body can excrete that causes hair loss. It is called Dihydrotestosterone (DHT).  Active shampoos formulated to remove the DHT are often drying.

First, you must treat your scalp condition. For this I recommend Surface, the Awaken line. I have seen hair regrowth on several clients. The product that is most active and removes the DHT is in the shampoo. The conditioners, sprays and serums are secondary to the action of the DHT removal.  Second, treat your hair with appropriate conditioners. Third, apply styling aids as appropriate.

Finding the Right Hair Care Regimen & Product Line Continuity

Finding the right hair care is essential. The end all be all of hair care doesn’t exist! What used to work might have been reformulated or discontinued. A new line is on its way too.  A professional application is not the same as at home care.   When possible, I give samples of products to the client so they can judge the performance for themselves.  

There is not a 100 percent guarantee with any line. In general, I like to stick with a single product line in my hair-care regimen. However, that isn’t always practical despite the plethora of options the market provides. Hair either responds to a product or it doesn’t. Unfortunately, it is not a one size fits all, which often leaves us with a graveyard of failed products in the quest to find the one that works best for us.

Caring for curly hair is more like a lifestyle than a daily routine.  Setting aside “me time” to wash our hair can feel like a luxury.  Time budgets can be tight.  Washing and styling curly hair is a process.  The washing, product application, styling and drying can take anywhere from two hours to two days.  Determining when to wash is based on porosity, amount of sebaceous oil, and sweat accumulated. This is why many curly individuals dedicate one day of the week for a full ‘Wash Day,’ while applying an abbreviated process to their hair in-between to keep their hair moisturized.

Protein and moisture are the name of the game with most curly lines. Mostly moisturizing products dominate the curly market.   Moisture creates volume and definition.  Protein is anti-frizz and closes the hair cuticle.  How ingredients interact with each-other and hair strands depends on the hair care lines use of water-soluble molecules. Protein can be defined with buzz words such as keratin and bond-builder.

If you are using a protein-based shampoo and conditioner, it is best to balance a regimen with this ratio:  1 protein ‘Wash Day” to 3 moisturizing “Wash Days.’  Too much protein can dull the hair, making it so strong it breaks—like a dehydrated stick. The hair benefits from moisture molecules balancing out the protein deposits.

Not all moisturizing molecules are created equal.  Some are super light.  Others are heavy with essential oils.  Deciding which one to buy is exhausting. I strongly recommend buying smaller sizes of conditioners until you feel it is safe to invest in liter sizes.

Comparison of The Products I Like to Use and Sell

In the salon I use four different lines for curly hair:  DevaCurl, Surface, Leaf and Flower and Taliah Waajid.  I love all of them. 

DevaCurl began as a moisture-based line with No-Poo, Low-Poo, One Condition and styling enhancers.  It has evolved and discontinued some products, expand others, re-branded and reformulated.

It now includes a protein line with CURLBOND.  They added, FLEXFACTOR Curl Protection and Retention Primer. It is great for natural curls, braids and twist-outs.  They also developed a relieving SCALPD(ph)ENSE Daily Nourishing Protecting Serum and Scalp Puri(pH)y Easy-Rinse Exfoliating Spray. Both are great for sensitive irritated scalps.

DevaCurl has a unique floral scent.  Deva curl is expensive.  You can get great deals through their website and or buy at Ulta to accumulate points.  I recommend trying the sequence of products prescribed by your stylist.

Surface Curls is an organic line. They use Amaranth, a curl safe protein combined with amazing Moringa and Babassu Oil’s for moisture among other ingredients in their extensive recipe list. The line is creamier than DevaCurl.  It adds elasticity, moisture and flexible strength. Surface curls aroma is like a freshly backed coconut almond cupcake.

For fine and thinning hair I always recommend treating the scalp with the Surface, Awaken line.  If you mix the Awaken and Curls line together its like a peppermint patty aroma.  My clients love it.

Surface is super pricey so you have to be convinced it’s worth it to buy.

Leaf and Flower is a new experience for me.  Normally companies make extensive systems that require purchasing 5 separate products to produce a finished end result.

Leaf and Flower Curl does it with three steps:  CBD instant curl repair shampoo, curl repair conditioner and curl defining cream. The line is CBD infused, powered by plant derivatives and the aroma is uplifting.  It is also quite pricey but a lil’ goes a long way. 

Taliah Waajid is the founder of her self-titled, established brand, with four lines to choose from. 

I just recently discovered the Curly line while out running errands at the local beauty warehouse.  I was super excited to try it on low porosity hair. WOW!   I found a product that delivers the results I have been searching for, for years. 

I have not had the same success using DevaCurl with low porosity hair.  I find that Talaih Waajid is where it is at!  The aroma is a menagerie of earth and fruity tones.  I dig it and can’t wait to learn more!  What is really exciting is the price point, totally reasonable!

Final Thoughts

The best plan of course is to do what works. There are so many opinions. Definitely Lorraine Massey is one of the OG’s of the curly movement. She wrote a book and it started a conversation amongst stylists and broke the norm for the big shampoo companies.  

 I encourage you to learn your hair.  Have fun searching key words that describe your texture.  I wish for you to have the tenacity to become more informed. My advice is be steadfast in research before throwing down your dollars.  My hope is for more diversity and education about hair texture to spread throughout the salon industry.

Written by SusyYoungLLC

susyyounghair.com

@susyyoungllc

720 king St.

Alexandria, Va 22314

202-4171423